Free Fallin’: Salish Lodge & Spa’s Traditional Country Breakfast

Country Breakfast at Salish Lodge & Spa Overlooking Snoqualmie Falls

Honey from Heaven. It sounds like an old-time song title, kind of like Pennies from Heaven. Just saying the words lends them a breathless quality, and summons up positive imagery. While it isn’t a song title, both the “breathless” allusion and the positive association are very true, as is the “old-time” reference.If you’ve ever stopped in at Salish Lodge & Spa, situated at the top of 276-foot Snoqualmie Falls for their famous Country Breakfast, you know what I’m talking about. It’s the lodge’s nod to history, and a celebrated part of a groaning board of brunch that gets everyone in the dining room to stop talking (maybe even texting) for a moment, breaths held, as the server raises a spoon as far as his or her arm extends, and then tips the spoon, allowing a golden strand of the sweet elixir to fall to the plate, topping house-made buttermilk biscuits. It’s one of those rare occasions when you can be certain what everyone else around you is thinking: “Will he (or she) make that shot?”

With rare exceptions, the servers are spot-on. And they should be; they and others, back into the (waterfall) mists of time, have had plenty of practice. This has been a ritual since the lodge was built a full century ago.

Half its lifetime ago, I visited the Salish Lodge in its former incarnation as Snoqualmie Falls Lodge with my dad, as we swung in for breakfast on our way to Eastern Washington. In a sepia-toned memory, I remember watching the Honey from Heaven tradition, skeptically eyed the distance from that hand on high to the plate. Grown-ups didn’t usually do such cool things.

Today, the honey that adds a swath of sweetness to those biscuits comes from the lodge’s own beehives, perched on a flower-jeweled hillside above the lodge. And those honey-draped biscuits? They’re the smallest part of the lodge’s astounding traditional Country Breakfast, which includes a trio of baked goods (a banana-chocolate chip muffin, lemon-poppy seed scone and blueberry coffeecake on my visit); buttermilk pancakes with fresh fruit; steel-cut oats and a heaping plateful of proteins (eggs, bacon, ham and pork sausage), plus hashed browns … just in case you’re still hungry. (Yeah, right.)

To celebrate its opening a century ago, Salish Lodge & Spa is offering its Country Breakfast at the price of $19.16 on Wednesdays, April 6 through June 29, 2016.

While the Country Breakfast certainly fills my stomach, what fills my soul is the sight and sound of the thundering falls, just outside. It’s always best in the spring and winter, when precipitation falling in the Cascades joins snowmelt to plump up the falls into a churning maelstrom that plunges over the cliff edge into the mist-drenched basin. I happen to be here during one of these epic rainfall-meets-snowmelt events, and the falls seem almost as broad as they are long.

I breathe in deeply, letting the dewy moisture alight on my face and coat my eyelashes like a sprinkling of pixie dust might feel, I imagine. It’s said that the mist from waterfalls carries negative ions, which offer positive physiological benefits.

While I can’t answer to that, I can definitively say that visiting the Salish Lodge & Spa for its age-old ritual of a hearty Country Breakfast and then paying homage at the falls to the travelers who wound their way here over rugged roads in Ford Model Ts a century ago feels as sweet as … Honey from Heaven.

A chilling experience proves revitalizing in Vernon, B.C.

As I stepped into the third room of the three-room chamber, I initially felt as though I was walking into an air-conditioned building in a place like, say, Phoenix, Ariz., on an August afternoon. The rush of cold air against my face felt refreshing at first, but it only took a second or two before my entire body was enveloped in a level of frigidity that I can honestly say I had never felt before. For the next three minutes, I would follow my instructions to walk slowly in a circle in the room, the main compartment of the cold sauna at Sparkling Hill Resort in Vernon, B.C.

Did I mention that the temperature inside was -110 degrees C (-166 Fahrenheit)?

The cold sauna is probably the most well known treatment at Sparkling Hill, the 149-room wellness resort that opened in 2010 in the northern portion of the Okanagan Valley, BC’s premier wine region. But it is far from the only reason to visit the property, which overlooks the lake that gives the valley its name.

The resort is owned by Gernot Langes-Swarovski, patriarch of Austria’s famed Swarovski family, and its décor incorporates 3.5 million Swarovski crystals. These shimmering displays range from the grand, such as the giant chandelier that forms a multi-story waterfall of crystals above the lobby, to the intimate, including a glass-encased display of brightly colored crystals mimicking a fireplace in each room. Floor-to-ceiling windows in every room, and teak and stone furnishings throughout the property keep the setting bright, modern and elegant. It’s a luxurious setting that has, thanks to an exchange rate now favoring the U.S. dollar, become a more affordable vacation option for those of us living south of the Canadian border.

The region’s recreational activities include water sports on the lake and golf in summer, skiing and snowboarding at nearby Silver Star Mountain (about 45 minutes away by car) in winter, and wine tasting throughout the year. But Sparkling Hill’s 40,000-square-foot KurSpa encourages guests to stay on property for the duration of a visit. Resort guests can come and go as they please to use the spa’s steam rooms and hot saunas, indoor and outdoor pools and other soothing amenities, including the Serenity Room, a sparsely furnished lounge where conversation is banned. In the Kneipp Waterway, guests walk along a series of shin-deep pools filled alternately with hot and cold water, designed to stimulate and invigorate nerves and the lymphatic system. A wide variety of massage and body treatments are also available (fees for these vary), and clinical services, including acupuncture, nutrition consultations and detoxification programs, are designed to help guests elevate their wellness regimes.

The spa initially welcomed day visitors when the resort opened, but the use of the facility is now restricted to resort guests only, with one exception: the cold sauna (below).


A free afternoon during a ski trip to Silver Star in February provided me with an opportunity to experience the treatment for myself.

The resort’s kinesiologist Paul Bradshaw, who administers the cold-sauna treatments, explained that Japanese and German researchers developed cold sauna in the 1980s as a form of cryotherapy for arthritis sufferers. In recent years, professional athletes have turned to immersion from the neck down in sub-freezing tanks cooled by liquid nitrogen to help recover from injuries. KurSpa claims its cold sauna is the only one in North America regulated by oil compressors and offering an enclosed chamber in which a person can walk around.

Three minutes in the coldest of the three rooms, the one set to -110 C, provides the maximum health benefits, Bradshaw told me. In addition to reducing inflammation, the cold temperature draws a person’s blood inward to warm the core, in the process bumping up the blood’s oxygen concentration. After a person’s leaves the chamber and his or her body temperature returns to normal, the distribution of this oxygen-enriched blood away from the core revitalizes the body.

After having my blood pressure tested, filling out a questionnaire and signing a release, I was asked to change into swim trunks and put my shoes and socks back on. I was then given a wool cap, a surgical mask and gloves and led inside the chamber, about 10 feet long and 8 feet tall. The first room was chilled to -10 C (14 degrees F); the second to -50 C (-58 F). As Bradshaw, bundled up for the session, ushered me from the first room to the second, after spending only a few seconds in each, he explained that the primary purpose of the first two rooms was to remove any moisture from my skin and clothes.

One of Bradshaw’s most impressive qualities is his ability to continue talking throughout the entire three minutes a person spends inside the coldest of the rooms. He noted that my natural instincts would make me want to flee from such a cold temperature, and, in between explanations of the treatment and how a person’s body reacts to it, he offered encouraging words on how well I was following the protocol, presumably to keep me from running out in a panic. It worked. Three minutes seemed like an eternity, but I felt energized from the moment I stepped out of the chamber.

Bradshaw says that it usually takes 10 to 20 sessions for the benefits of the resort’s cold sauna treatments ($45 Canadian per session, or $300 for a 10-sesson package) to take effect, but I only had time for one session. This was still enough for me to feel relaxed and energized for the rest of the day, and the minor aches that had built up from a couple of days on the slopes seemed to have subsided. This alone was reason enough for me to start planning my next trip back to the Okanagan Valley.

(Photo courtesy of Sparkling Hill Resort.)

McMenamins connects lodging to community in Bothell


“Back to school” has rarely been as fun as it was in Bothell last week during the pre-opening party for the new McMenamins Anderson School hotel, which officially began welcoming guests two days later, on Oct. 15. The Oregon-based hospitality company welcomed a broad range of community members, including former W.A. Anderson School faculty members, alums and their families, to celebrate the company’s first Seattle-area hotel. Guests exploring the 5-acre property created a festive din as they sampled selections from the five onsite restaurants and bars while admiring the eclectic art and design features adorning the 72-room hotel and related amenities.

McMenamins is known for converting tired historical properties into lively and unpretentious gathering places, and the Anderson School, the company’s ninth hotel and 54th overall location, seems a perfect fit for its playbook. The hotel rooms are set in the former classrooms of the brick, three-story art deco schoolhouse that originally opened in 1931 as Bothell Junior High and was later named for its first principal, Wilbert A. Anderson.

The check-in desk is located across a walkway from the schoolhouse in a corner of the former cafeteria and adjoins Tavern on the Square. The latter, a full-service farm-to-table restaurant, is awash in dark woods complemented by antique-inspired light fixtures and stained glass, including a row of panels designed to show the musical notes from the Grateful Dead song “Scarlet Begonias.” This design motif, sort of like a marriage between Victorian and Psychedelic styles, continues throughout much of the rest of the property, with historic photos complemented by original paintings brightened by a sun splash here or a moonbeam there.

A formerly neglected indoor city pool across a parking lot from the schoolhouse has been transformed into the North Shore Lagoon, a new, South Seas-inspired saltwater pool open to the public and hotel guests. Bamboo-paneled walls adorned with Polynesia art surround the refurbished pool, while a new, glass-enclosed tiki bar overlooking an edge of the pool completes the tropical vibe.

Back on campus, outdoor seating, fire pits and creative lighting encourage hotel guests, restaurant patrons and other visitors to linger in the courtyard (pictured above). Down the way, the old school gymnasium has been converted into a 134-seat movie theater showing first run features. Audience members can order food, beer and other beverages to enjoy at their seats, a so-called “view and brew” experience. A private-event space adjoining the cinema is named for U.S. Sen. Patty Murray, who grew up in Bothell and attended the school. (Murray’s 8th grade yearbook photo is posted alongside that of her twin sister, Margaret, in a hallway outside the event space.)

As is the case with McMenamins’ other properties, the beverage selections include the company’s own brand of wines and beers, with batches of the latter brewed onsite. Plans are said to be underway to add offerings from nearby Woodinville wineries to the mix. While rooms at some McMenamins properties require guests to use shared bathrooms, each room at the Anderson School has its own bathroom, along with a flat-screen TV and Wi-Fi.

The hotel’s proximity to Woodinville’s wine country, about five miles away by car or bike (the latter via the Sammamish River Trail) make it a welcome addition to the Eastside’s lodging offerings. The “come-one, come-all” spirit of its restaurants, pubs, pool and movie theater is bound to make the property a hit with locals, too.

Perhaps the most interesting thing about the hotel is its connection to the community. Shortly after McMenamins struck its development deal with the city of Bothell about five years ago, its two in-house historians went into action. The information they obtained from historical records and interviews with former school faculty members and their families, along with others from the community, formed the basis for several paintings of people who shaped the community. Combined with historic photos and placards, these portraits tell the story of Bothell, from its rural beginnings through its emergence into an increasingly sophisticated residential community. Displays in the rooms and common areas reveal interesting details about people such as Don Bagnell, Roger Fisher and Steve Fossen. The former was an assistant Anderson School principle credited for diversifying the faculty’s ethnic makeup during the mid-1960s; the latter two were kids from nearby Kenmore who went on to become founding members of the rock band Heart.

As guests gaze at these and other vignettes, they are likely to be as pleasantly surprised as I was by what you can learn in school these days.

(Photo by Kathleen Nyberg, courtesy of McMenamins)

AAA rates green cars for fuel efficiency, value and performance

 Tesla Model S P85D

If you are looking for an ecologically friendly car that’s fun to drive, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better option than the 2015 Tesla Model S P85D (above)—if you can afford one. When it comes to finding a fuel-efficient car that offers great value, the 2014 Nissan Versa SV is the top choice. These are just a couple of the findings contained in AAA’s 2015 Green Car Guide.

The annual report, compiled by AAA Washington’s colleagues at the Automobile Club of Southern California Automotive Research Center, features reviews and ratings of 88 electric, hybrid, alternative-fuel, clean-diesel and gasoline-powered cars, trucks and SUVs. In addition to vehicles from the 2015 model year, those seeing no significant power-train upgrades since being released in either 2013 or 2014 are also included. The auto club’s evaluators weighed 13 factors, including handling, crashworthiness, comfort, braking, handling, fuel economy and emissions to determine each vehicle’s overall score. A second set of ratings was created by dividing each vehicle’s price by its score to determine value.

In addition to receiving high marks for comfort and handling, the 2015 Tesla P85D had the best acceleration time—0 to 60 mph in just over 3 seconds—of all the vehicles in the study. With a price tag of $133,320 (as tested, before incentives), it was also the third most expensive vehicle in the group, behind the 2014 BMW i8 ($136,219) and the 2014 Lexus LS 600h L ($135,025).

The Tesla’s overall score of 94.87 led the rankings by a wide margin. It was followed by two other electric cars: the 2015 Volkswagen e-Golf SEL Premium (85.50 points) and the 2014 BMW i3 (85.40 points).

Priced at just $16,050, the 2014 Nissan Versa SV, with a gasoline-powered engine offering 35 mpg, had the lowest cost-per-point score ($249), representing the best value. The 2014 Nissan Versa Note SV ($260) and the 2013 Hyundai Accent GLS ($269), both also powered by gasoline, earned the second and third best cost-per-point scores.

The 2015 Subaru Outback 2.5i Premium (priced at $31,535 as tested), the 2015 Volkswagen Golf TDI SE ($27,010), and the 2013 Nissan Leaf ($29,650) placed fourth, fifth and sixth, respectively, in the overall rankings, further demonstrating that you don’t have to break the bank to go green.

In addition to the rankings, the Green Car Guide provides a review of every car in the study and updates on recent advances in alternative fuels and vehicle technology. Among the report’s other interesting findings: Even with recent dips in gasoline prices, a person spending $31,840 on a Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium instead of $30,290 on a non-hybrid Fusion FWD Titanium (4-cylinder) would recoup the price difference through savings on fuel in about three years (based on fuel prices of $2.50 per gallon and 15,000 miles of driving per year).

The Auto Club began producing the annual guide in 2011 to help consumers in the market for an eco-friendly car, truck or SUV learn more about their options. Visit to find the report online.

Heed the call of the Northwest Coast

Westport Winery Sculpture Garden

There’s something about a visit to the coast that rouses the spirit. Some of us are inspired by the seemingly limitless opportunities that the ocean provides for adventure and discovery. Others are moved by the raw power of surf pounding against sand and rock or by the scenic tranquility found at land’s end. I could go on, but I think you get the point: the coast offers myriad qualities that resonate with people in different ways, including ways that are highly personal.

In the interests of providing Journey magazine readers with tips on where to pursue memorable coastal experiences of your own, our magazine’s editorial staff teamed with AAA Washington’s auto-travel experts to create the roundup of “Coastal Treasures” that appears in our July/August print edition. Our premise was simple: We asked our colleagues to tell us about their favorite things to see and do along the Washington-Oregon coast. We combined their recommendations with our personal favorites to create a “treasure map” of great places to stay, eat, explore or play between Cape Flattery and the California state line. After you read the article, we hope you’ll take a few moments to tell us about your own favorite coastal activities, amenities or attractions by email (, so that we can share these additional recommendations on the Reader Response page of this website.

On a personal note, I am looking forward to venturing out to the Oregon coast during my summer vacation in August, and I don’t plan on leaving the Pacific Northwest until October, at the earliest. Why would anyone leave our region in summer or even early fall? However, before I fully set my sights on the weeks ahead, I need to look back for a moment and offer a shout-out to Michelle Wilkerson, the AAA travel agent who booked the flights, hotels and a car-rental for my trip to England and Scotland with my girlfriend, Kate, last April. Michelle found us great rates, and our hotels in London (Saint James Court, A Taj Hotel) and Edinburgh (Apex European Hotel) were clean, comfortable, centrally located and fun.

Kate and I enjoyed a truly memorable vacation, thanks to Michelle, and I’m not the only one with praise for her professionalism and expertise. Michelle also arranged a great vacation to Iceland last March for Lawrence Jacobson, a AAA member residing in Olympia. Mr. Jacobson enjoyed the trip so much that he offered to write about it for us just as soon as he returned. You can read about his experiences in the land of geysers and glaciers in our inaugural Travel Diary. With the launch of this new series, we invite you to submit short articles about your own travel experiences (up to 600 words) for publication on our website. This is a fun way to help fellow travelers pursue the types of memorable experiences that we all seek when we travel. These submissions are also accepted by email (, and I can’t wait to read about your adventures.

Note: I took the photo of Lora Malakoff’s Fleur de Lis (above) during a stroll through the sculpture garden at Westport Winery, just a few miles away from beach, on my own coastal road trip two summers ago.